The buzz: Located in the new compound The Jam Factory, which also houses a gallery space and Candide Bookstore, this Thai restaurant in a quiet residential area on the Thonburi side of the river has garnered enthusiastic support since it opened in December. The place is run by starchitect Duangrit Bunnag (Hotel de la Paix in Cha-am, TCDC) and his partner, Naree Boonyakiat, who wanted to recreate the kind of recipes they enjoyed while growing up in their upper-class Bangkokian households.
The décor: Rustic and cozy, yet sophisticated thanks to an airy dining room sitting beneath the soaring ceiling of an old warehouse. Flecked paint, iron accents, and photography by a local artist complete a picture that’s both industrial and urban. The open kitchen is thoughtfully designed so you can truly take in all the action, such as cooks pounding away at mortars to make nam prik from scratch. The most desirable spot, though, may well be the riverside deck.
The food: The three main chefs, one of whom had a stint at Sala Rim Nam (Mandarin Oriental), were made to study the partners’ favorite childhoods recipes by digging up old cookbooks from high society ladies. As a result, many of the dishes are treats that have become increasingly rare, such as the moo sarong (pork stuffed with salted egg and wrapped with egg noodles, B160) and pla too tom kem (soup with mackerel, B200), which is one of many pla too dishes here (they use only Thai fish). The nam prik (chili paste, B140-B210) is a good example of how carefully they source their ingredients, whether it’s the nam pla or the kapi (shrimp paste) from Chanthaburi. Served with local vegetables like tua plu and pak plang, it can also be enjoyed as nam prik koi (B190), a smooth combination of shrimps and coconut milk.
The drinks: The focus here is on the vibe and the food so do not expect fireworks from the drink list. You can wash down the spiciness with soft drinks like chrysanthemum tea (B25) or roselle (B25). The beer list includes Singha (B150), Heineken (B150) and Beerlao (B120).
The crowds: Downtowners who drive across the river for the view, hi-so pals of the owners and curious foodies. You might want to bookmark the Facebook page (tinyurl.com/o4a6syb) before setting off, as it’s a bit tricky to find.
