Silom is a funny neighborhood for eateries. There seems to be little in between cheap street side stalls and food courts that serve armies of office workers before they head off to shop and the high- end (and high-priced) international venues that serve the neighborhood’s wealthy expats. That’s why this long-term institution is such a gem. Tucked away behind Central, next to a sweaty market, it walks a fine line between comfort and price, while serving up some consistently good Thai food. Sure the service is patchy (if friendly), the décor leans towards down at heel (despite the new furniture) and the Majang music videos quickly lose their charm. But once we taste their yam pak boong grob (deep fried morning glory) any such misgivings are forgotten. No soggy morning glory and no overly sweet sauce—they get it just right. Indeed Papaya doesn’t hold back on the spices, as you can tell from the fried fish spicy salad with grilled rice, one of a number of grilled fish options on what is a pretty extensive menu. While the fish is a little dry, the mint is nice and fresh and helps give the dish its distinctive kick. Indeed, pretty much all the dishes we’ve sampled follow a similar pattern—good quality ingredients that are well-flavored. Prices are reasonable, too: like the beef green curry with its tender meat. Another stand out has to be the fried chicken with garlic though we preferred it when it used to come with the herbs. Not everything works: salads like the somtam with horse crab can’t compare to street alternatives in terms of price or taste. Not surprisingly, Papaya does get pretty busy at lunchtime, but ever since they stopped the live music, it can be a little quiet at night. Don’t let that put you off, though. If you’re in the area and want some good Thai food in a cute and friendly setting, then Papaya ticks all the right boxes. Corkage B150 (liquor) B200 (wine).