Conveniently located close to BTS Phrom Pong, Trio 24 delivers solid Italian dishes without breaking the bank. The two-story restaurant is tucked away in a strange u-shaped sub-soi across from Emporium’s taxi stand, peacefully co-existing with dodgy massage parlors and izakayas. The décor is clean—white walls, laminate floor—and the low-ceiling is partially redeemed by a mirrored corner and bright (a bit too bright) lighting. The Italian manager cheerfully recommends and gently nudges you towards the right dishes. His captain does the rest, and she does it quickly and with a smile. The food is basic—no molecular parmesan cooked seven ways, here—but it’s good and portions are generous. We also enjoy little details like the very thin breadsticks, the big pour of good, reasonably priced house wine, and the bread. For starters, we recommend the antipasto misto; but don’t expect sun-dried tomatoes, grilled peppers and pickled artichokes. Instead, you get a hearty plate of cold cuts (salami, cured ham, coppa) with pitted black olives (blasphemy!) and a few chunks of good parmesan. Despite the dearth of condiments, the cured meats were superb: the ham was nutty, freshly sliced and perfectly cured. Attempts at sophistication, such as the snow fish carpaccio, are less successful: the fish was tasteless and rubbery on our last visit. Pasta here is cooked properly (to all those small, well-intentioned Thai joints that do spaghetti, please come here to experience what al dente really means). The pesto sauce may be a bit oily, but it’s a simple, fragrant sauce that does justice to the pasta (try it with tagliatelle). Of course, your neighborhood Italian wouldn’t be complete without a pizza oven. And what pizzas! Not only are they big but the crust is thin and perfectly cooked—fresh but not soggy, crispy yet soft. The quattro formaggio (four cheese pizza) contains actual chunks of parmesan and some pleasant touches of blue cheese; and it’s not oily. Trio 24 isn’t fancy, but it sums up everything that makes Italian restaurants so popular: simple, satisfying dishes and a warm welcome. Corkage B300.
