Triplets is part of Bangkok’s quiet food revolution, which sees local produce cooked with French techniques—a tricky task that Chef Nateampai Sarakosass pulls off well. But before you get to even enjoy her cuisine, you’ll have to overcome a few hurdles. Triplets is on the sixth floor of a gloomy tower on Thonglor. The decor, with its open kitchen island, could have felt like someone’s living room, but the multiple Triplets logo and marketing mantras by the entrance give off a vibe that’s more office than salon. (Nice view, though.) The staff is unsmiling and completely clueless about the menu, but at least the bubbly co-owner is quick to swoop in when she sees them struggling. Admittedly, some recipes, like the coq au vin, can be fairly classic, maybe even a tad uninspired. But most others, like the beef tomato and mozarella salad, are a revelation. The usual splash of balsamic vinegar has been replaced by a hibiscus flower reduction, which lends it bitter-sweet notes. Drizzled over surprisingly flavorful tomatoes, the result is spectacular. We should mention that the food and wines (Granmonte or Siam Winery, B1,150-1,500) served here are all local—something the chef is very passionate about, as she is actively involved in volunteering for the Royal Project farms. Sometimes this localization results in dishes that border on fusion, or Pacific Rim cuisine, such as the fish fillet served with potato and mushroom risotto: a bold recipe (no rice involved) marred by texture issues and, on our last visit, overcooked fish. We like simpler endeavors: The duck confit salad looks very classic—and the duck is surprisingly tender—but the sauce has a lovely herbal kick that make Triplets’ recipe unique. Desserts are just as carefully executed, and freshly baked (count on 7-15 minute wait times), such as the tangy, crunchy crumble du jour. Despite its flaws in and out of the kitchen, Triplets is very reasonably priced, and precisely the kind of place we’d like you to support—a place where eating is about discovery and taking a few risks—not just an exercise in remaining dead square in the comfort zone.
Triplets
