Vatel has taken a remote and unlikely location for a French restaurant—the Talingchan strip on the outskirts of Bangkok—and made it a homey alternative for unfussy diners looking for an affordable French meal. Its inconspicuous spot on a narrow alleyway before a U-turn means that Vatel is never busy. Stepping in, you might think you are in a tacky Chinese restaurant as the dimly lit space is filled with large round tables, bishop’s hat napkins and faux-Louis XV chairs with garish upholstery. There’s a garden theme composed of pine green walls, botanical paintings, floral prints on chairs and actual trees (yes, indoors). As the establishment is run by Silpakorn University International College and Vatel Institut to prepare hotel management students for a career in the industry, the first page of the menu apologizes for any inconvenience or mistakes beforehand. You have been warned. True enough, the service is sloppy. But how can we be cruel to cute and zealous students, even when they fail to explain what goes into a dish or forget to ask how we prefer our meat? And sloppy doesn’t mean inattentive: there are seemingly a dozen people vying to refill your glass of water (for free) at any moment. As for what you’ll order from the brief menu, apart from a few misfires, portions are generous and prices reasonable. So if the stewed pork with honey sauce reminds you of a typical kha muu (braised pork knuckle), go for the succulent grilled New Zealand beef tenderloin instead. The grilled cubes of New Zealand lamb “embalmed with Morocco sense,” if a bit spendy at B490, are nevertheless comprised of tender and juicy meat and rich gravy. Desserts, like the savory recipes, are good but aren’t likely to earn raves. Cocktails and mocktails are a bargain . The best deals are the two set dinners: the Vatel set (two courses or three courses) and the Napoleon set (three courses)—coffee/tea is included. All in all, if you are willing to overlook the charmingly amateurish service and odd location, Vatel is a decent spot to sample French fare without breaking the bank.
