Yoshoku cuisine is Japanese interpretations of Western food, which mostly appeared in the Meiji era (late 1800s, early 1900s). You have this great tradition to thank for such comforting fusion favorites as korokke (croquettes), katsu curry or Naporitan (a bastardized pasta dish). And if you’re going to open a Japanese restaurant in a town that’s overdosing on sushi, it’s definitely an interesting focus, as Waizo’s popularity with middle-aged Japanese salarymen can attest. Apart from a few small Italian flags brightening up the suitably subdued cream and brown décor, Waizo looks typically Japanese, barely hinting at its cuisine’s pan-global influences. The food is good, the service definitely better than at other restaurants in this mall, but despite Waizo’s yoshoku specialization, we’ve had all these dishes better elsewhere. The hamburg with homemade demi-glace (B280), despite the rich and velvety sauce, isn’t made with particularly impressive meat. Neither does the produce in the caesar salad with onsen tamago (B200) meet our standards. Lacking in freshness, the salad was only redeemed by its well-poached egg. Another popular dish, the meat doria with onsen tamago (B260) comes with a nice thick sauce and pleasantly gratinated cheese topping. Together with the rich beef, the combination is comforting and tasty. Pastas are the true specialty here, though—just remember you’re having yoshoku pasta, not pasta Italiana. The lovely mentaiko pasta with mushroom (B320), for example, is just delicious. The fish eggs bring saltiness, great aroma and a crunchy texture, while the use of oba leaf infuses the whole dish with a pleasant perfume. Our top picks would remain Ramentei’s katsu curry, Serina’s hamburg steak and Yumeyima’s pasta, but Waizo does do all these dishes competently enough if you find yourself in the neighborhood. Oh, and desserts are 50% off from 11am-4pm. Corkage charge B500.
