Even though the overall experience lacks originality and fireworks, Water Cress does decent food with prompt service and cute-enough decor. Perhaps we’ve been spoiled by all the hip concept restaurants lately, but even among its direct competitors—inexpensive Thai restaurants touting their non-MSG, veggie-friendly, organic-heavy menus—Water Cress doesn’t particularly distinguish itself. It isn’t that the food is bad: the tod mun pla (fried fish cakes, B90) are fluffy and full-flavored and avoid the leathery texture that sometimes befalls this dish; the tom kha kai is a nice balance of sweet, sour and creamy and the chicken is generous and high quality; the grilled cod fish with dill gravy can be slightly overcooked, but overall is a large, well-done portion with a bright, if boring, preparation. The sauteed spinach with garlic and mushroom is fine, but we could also make that at home in five minutes flat; and the fresh spring rolls are a bit too gritty and earthy for us, with their black mushrooms and inky, thick sesame dipping sauce. We just have a little problem with the concept. The reminders that we are in a super healthy place are a little over the top for what we get. Sure, the chicken is sourced from S-Pure (so what?) and there are an awful lot of tofu and mushroom preparations, but we can get organic gaba rice at S&P. Not to mention, Water Cress falls prey to that age-old nemesis, the way-too-long menu that tries to cover unoriginal Thai and Western dishes that simply bewilders the diner, causing them to lapse into despondency before they have even ordered. Healthy doesn’t have to mean boring, though we are happy to know that they source good ingredients. Still, it’s cheap and the portions are nice, and you can do a lot worse in that area.Corkage B300.
