2010 was an unusual renaissance year for Bangkok dining with lots of new places doing original and sophisticated concepts. 2011 has been the year of the backlash, with most new openings replicating the old formula of a hodge podge menu of pastas and Japanese fusion served in contemporary dining rooms heavy on birch wood and industrial touches. Which is why Wine Me Up is such a shock to the senses: a cross between a Las Vegas resort and a Renaissance Fair, it resolutely ignores current restaurant design wisdom and packs in bombastic, incongruous elements such as a Sistine Chapel ceiling, a prominent bar with hundreds of tiny black mirrors and reddish lighting. (And all within spitting distance of minimalist Roast, utilitarian BonChon and concrete and leafy Clouds.) But come here on a Saturday night without a reservation, and you might become convinced that Wine Me Up is doing everything right, whether the snobby tastemakers (like us) approve or not. The place gets packed with people ordering tons of wine, eating and drinking for hours and taking pictures on their phones. And while the kitschy Italian-themed eatery does serve up the odd curve balls like nacho supreme (B260) and (our pet peeve) Japanese fusion like the spaghetti with buta yaki and tobiko (B280), it’s hard to take exception to the quality of the food. The oft-done tuna with wasabi cream sauce (B260) is fresh, if a bit dry, and almost raw with a lovely peppery crust. Even the fettucine with river prawn (B340), which perhaps graces every other Italian menu in town, is done well: al dente pasta, a savory and spicy white wine sauce in restrained amounts and a large, well-executed prawn that’s so tender, it’s practically creamy. And while the grilled lamb chop is a touch tough and comes with a too-sweet mint jelly, it’s a reasonable B720 and comes with grilled vegetables and fluffy, textured mashed potatoes. That, and the wine deals are fabulous, with six wines by the glass (starting at B180) and an affordable list of bottles going for B750-6,000. So unless you oppose a restaurant like Wine Me Up on principle, or are prone to seizures, it’s a great option for a festive, carb-heavy meal and some cheap wine that doesn’t feel cheap. Corkage B400.
