The buzz: Next in our round-up of unexpectedly charming restaurants on the second floor of K.Village is Yum and Tum. Granted there has been a recent proliferation of self-aware, cutesy Isaan restaurants in upscale surroundings, most of which have air-conditioning and elevated prices to match. But the tucked-away charm, the concentrated menu and the value for money is mak- ing Yum and Tum particularly popular among visitors to this mall, most of whom are simply way too over-dressed to eat on the sidewalk.
The décor: A mix of old school and modern that somehow works. There’s an open kitchen with a black granite counter top and metal vents suspended from the ceiling sat alongside vintage knick knacks like an old Thai house min- iature/birdcage and a library wall lined with fake books. The dumbell-shaped layout also means that there are lots of cozy tables offering added privacy.
The food: All your favorite Isaan street stalls rolled into one, medium-length menu where no dish is over B100. They do the usual yam, such as pla dook foo (crispy catfish) and woon sen (vermicel- li), but also less usual alternatives like het hu nu (ear mushrooms) and tao hu pla (fish tofu). They also have several iterations of som tam and at least ten kinds of larb as well as some noodle dishes and Thai jelly des- serts. Best of all, the por- tions are twice the size of street stalls, and the meats tend to be of a high quality, tender and fatty.
The drinks: The usual Thai iced teas and juices, except in enormous glasses with measuring marks running up the side. Not much by way of alcohol, except for Heineken, but that’s really all you need to cut through the spicy food.
The crowd: Yum and Tum fills tables, even on a Monday night, with young shoppers, small groups of young women who like the hidden tables, as well as groups of after-work gents. That’s the democratic appeal of Isaan food.
Corkage B150.
