How to eat and drink your way around Bangkok's Chinatown

---

 

Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. Places like 1. Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203), a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 2. Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. Dining here is done traditional Chinese-style, so come with a big enough party to fill one of the large round tables. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian community, and 3. Royal India (392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for lip-smacking good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother style— plenty of cream and ghee. And be sure to stock up on traditional Indian sweets on your way out. The area’s old-school tea and coffee houses are also not to be missed. The 87-yearold 4. Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee laced with condensed milk alongside charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices. 5. Double Dogs (406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075), meanwhile, specializes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region.